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Field Care
for Potential Shoulder Mounts
1.
When field dressing a trophy, do not cut into brisket. Stop your cut about 5 to 6 inches behind the front legs. DON'T
cut into chest cavity.
2.
When dragging the trophy out of the woods, do your best not to drag it on the front shoulder, or chest. DON'T drag against
the hair pattern.
3.
Try to protect the fur from the nose to behind the shoulder.
4.
NEVER leave trophy in direct sunlight.
5. NEVER
keep it in a plastic bag unless on ice or in a freezer. This DOES NOT include it being in a plastic bag with ice in
the bag also.
6. Keep
as dry as possible.
7.
Try to keep away from over shooting (excess damage).
8.
A well placed shot behind the shoulders also results in less damge to the cape.
9.
NEVER slit the throat on a potential trophy.
10. NEVER
hang trophy by the neck to skin.
11.
Cape out as soon as possible.
Field Care
for Potential Small Game Mounts
1.
Animals, coyote sized or smaller, should not be skinned unless by a professional.
2.
Don't gut the animal.
3.
Small mammals, especially carnivores, will spoil quickly because of their thin hide and bacteria.
4.
If you can't take the small game animal immediately to a taxidermist, as soon as the carcass cools completely, put in in a
plastic bag and freeze it.
5. Handle the
fur very carefully, as not to cause damage.
With the epidemic
of rabies evident in many areas of the country take every safety measure necessary when handling your game
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Field Care
for Potential Bird Mounts
1.
Feathers are fragile. Do not wring the neck of a wounded bird if you want to have if mounted.
2.
Do not expose a dead bird to direct sunlight. Cool it as quickly as possible and keep it in the shade.
3.
Do not cut or gut your bird.
4.
Wipe or wash off any fresh blood, if possible. Do not try to wash dried blood.
5.
Plug any holes leaking blood, such as shot holes, nostrils or throat with tissue or paper towels.
6.
Place in a cooler with ice.
7.
Fresh specimens make the best mounts; so, deliver to your taxidermist as soon as possible.
8.
If you do have to freeze your bird, wrap the feet in WET paper towels or rags and TWO
plastic bags to avoid freezer burn.
9.
When you deliver the specimen to your taxidermist, you must bring all applicable tags, permits and licenses.
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Caping and Cape Care
Click
on picture for a view of the caping line.
Figure 1
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Caping for a shoulder mount
1. With a sharp knife
slit the hide circling the body behind the shoulder at approximately the mid-way point of the rib cage behind the front legs.
2. Slit the skin around
the legs just above the knees. An additional slit will be needed from the back of the legs where the hair lines come
together. (Figure 1.)
3. Peel the skin forward
up to the ears and jaw exposing the head / neck junction.
4. Cut into the neck approximately
three inches down from this junction, Circle the neck cutting down to the spinal column.
5. After this cut is complete,
grasp the antler bases and twist the head off the neck.
6. This should allow the
hide to be rolled up and put in a freezer until transported to the taxidermist.
7. Do not allow cape to get wet, as this can
cause hair slippage.
8. DO NOT put in plastic bag unless
on ice or in a freezer.
9. Freeze or bring to taxidermist as
soon as possible. Naturally, fresh specimen will make a better quality mount.
These cuts should allow ample
hide for the taxidermist to work with mounting. Remember, the taxidermist can cut off excess hide but can't add what
he doesn't have. If you have any doubt about where to cut the cape off, STOP your cut approximately 5 to 6 inches
behind the front shoulder and bring the whole hide in to the taxidermist.
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